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Different looks with lip shapes alone!

Changing your lip color is not the only way to completely transform a look. Making small adjustments to your lip shape can take you from a glamorous, Old-Hollywood movie star to a bubbly, twenty-something babe. For this tutorial, we created three different lip shape guides with specific focus on small, thin lips. Take a look below!

Full lips for everyday

You will need a neutral, rosy lip pencil (the color of your lips basically) for this look. Darker colors would inevitably make your lips seem fake with that sort of overlining, so use them at your own risk.

With the lip pencil, slightly overline the sides of the upper lip line. Go just a tiny bit over the natural edge. Curve the line at the Cupid's bow, so that you get a very feminine, full lip shape.
On the lower lip stay in line with the natural edge of the lips. Usually the lower lip is fuller than the upper, but if that is not the case, follow the technique from above, meaning slightly overline just the sides of the lip.
Lip pencils tend to leave a matte finish, but if you will apply a lipstick over it, make sure to blot away any shine with a thin piece of paper towel or toilet paper, so that the light won't bounce off of the natural lip edge, thus revealing the overlining.

Angular lips for a bubbly look

In the previous guide you overlined the sides of the upper/lower lip in order to create a very curvy, feminine shape. With this technique, just follow the natural, straight edge of the lips up to the Cupid's bow where you make a quite pointed shape on top. The same applies to the lower lip, but without the pointed shape, so crisp, straight edges on the sides and no excessive overlining.
A nice, vibrant berry pink color would work wonderfully with this lip shape. If you have a quality lip pencil, you might not even need a lipstick, because the lip pencil might be moisturizing enough. Simply fill in the lips as you would with a lipstick.

Pro tip: If you have angular, prominent features as it is (like our model in the tutorial), an angular lip shape will make your features sharper, so if you want to soften the look, wear your hair down, possibly even with loose curls.


Glamorous (Old Hollywood) lips

The final look of this tutorial is quite special as it gives off the vibe of a classy, charming, 50s movie star, especially if you will use a dark lip color.

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With a dark wine/brown lip pencil start lining the sides of the upper lip by staying inside the natural edge from the outer corner towards the Cupid's bow, but then overline the edge just a bit before the actual Cupid's bow begins and curve the tops of the bow.
For the lower lip, start similarly inside the natural lip edge, but then at the point that is vertical to the one on the upper lip where you began overlining, make a slightly sharper turn, so that the central third of the lip is lined with an almost horizontally straight line.
The whole lip shape should be very symmetrical, so a steady hand is crucial here.

Pro tip: An intensely dark lip color coupled with a striking lip shape like that requires a classic cat-eye flick on the eyes to really finish off the look.


Product list

  • Kryolan Contour Pencil no. 925
  • Laura Mercier Crushed Berry lip pencil
  • Laura Mercier Coffee Bean lip pencil
  • YSL Rouge pur Coutur lipstick no. 66
  • YSL Rouge pur Coutur lipstick no. 205