Architectural makeup look sounds a bit scary, but really awesome at the same time. Girls with hooded eyes, you're in for a treat, because you will rock this look like no other. Get the step-by-step tutorial with illustrations below!
Hooded eyes have a bit of excess skin folded horizontally over their lid. It's a fairly common eye shape, and it's definitely not the end of the (makeup) world for you. You just have to choose the right techniques to make it work. If you have such eyes and you haven't found what works for you yet, there are two things you absolutely need – a good primer and this tutorial (plus all the other tutorials on our site that deal with hooded eyes).
Primer is always the starting point of any makeup look and especially important for hooded eyes, because it helps the makeup to stick to the base better. Apply it over the upper lid, under the lower lid and let it set.
Pro tip: Applying primer under the eyes erases those teeny tiny lines and prevents the concealer from creasing.
Prepare a very precise pointed brush and a pot of black gel eyeliner. Make a thin line along the upper lash line, finishing with a winged flick at the outer corner. The flick should stop right at the crease. Instead of avoiding the hooded crease, now extend the eyeliner from the flick, slightly over the crease, to the point where your eyeliner usually gets transferred. Let the line "fade" before you reach the central part of the lid. The result should remind you of a delicate butterfly wing.
Best part? Since you already colored the part where the eyeliner usually leaves a stain, you don't have to worry about it anymore – it's literally covered. Intensify the black color in the corner and along the lash line, so the lines are crisp and even.
With a dark blue, peacock-y shade create a gradient in the corner of the eyes. The black should work as a frame, and you use the blue color inside this frame. Extend the color very precisely also along the lash line.
Next comes the shimmery salmon shade, which you apply on the middle and inner parts of the eyelid. Carefully avoid the blue and black parts, so the gradient stays architecturally precise. In other words, don't blend the salmon color with the others!
To make the eyes more awake and to counteract the dark colors on the upper lid, apply a nude pencil in the lower waterline.
A few coats of mascara, filled-in eyebrows and you're done with the eyes.
Skin and Lips
Neutralize the redness around your nose and on your cheeks with a thin layer of a neutralizing corrector. If your skin is otherwise blemish-free, you don't need foundation. A BB cream will do perfectly well, leaving a natural-looking base. For an even more natural look, apply the BB cream with a tapping motion and a moist beauty blender. The blender will prevent caking and seamlessly melt the BB cream into the skin. Additionally, apply some moisturizing and brightening concealer under the eyes for an "I-slept-10-hours" effect.
Since the eye makeup is heavy and structured, everything else will be softer. Bronze the top of the forehead, the cheekbones and under the chin very lightly - just to warm up the face. Use a bit of cream highlighter on the apples of the cheeks for a dose of healthy glow. Alternatively, you could substitute highlighting product with some clear lip balm if your skin isn't oily.
As for the lips, a glossy pink lipstick will make the look young and fresh.
- LOreal Gel Intenza eyeliner in Pure Black
- Dior eyeshadow palette 357 Electrify
- YSL Touche Eclat neutralizer in green
- YSL Le Teint Touche Eclat BR 10
- Laura Mercier Bronze Glow bronzing stick
- L'Oreal Brow Artist Genius Kit
- Bourjois Radiance Reveal concealer in Ivory
- NYX Wonder pencil in Claire
- L'Oreal Paradise Extatic mascara
- YSL Rouge Volupte Shine in no. 44
- YSL Rouge Volupte shine in no. 42
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